The difference between gauge lines – Standard EV vs. EV² and Performax

EV vs. EV²

There are a number of advantages to the EV² versus the EV series gauges. They are similar in appearance (available in the same general styles), but EV series uses curved lenses.

The EV series uses a separate “amplifier box” near the gauge head, so you need to find a mounting spot for it. The amplifier box for a Pyrometer measures about 2.3″ x 2.3″ x 1.6″, and for a temperature gauge it measures about 2.75″ x 2.4″ x 0.88″. The EV series is an air core gauge movement, basically a set of electric windings, with electronics in the amplifier box to drive them. They also use conventional incandescent bulbs for lighting, although we offer LED replacement bulbs in a variety of colors. They do have the benefit of allowing you to change the backlighting colors. The EV series does include mechanical boost and other pressure gauges. These are typically lower cost than electronic gauges, but require running tubing into the cab. In the case of a fuel pressure gauge, it requires the use of an isolator to keep fuel out of the cab.

The EV² Series is completely “standalone”, no amplifier box needed. They utilize stepper motor movements for precision, and LED backlighting for brightness and durability. Both of these technologies allow the gauge to operate at a very low current draw (less than 0.1 Amp with lights at full brightness). Also, the backlighting is powered by the main ignition input, without drawing any measurable current from the dimmer circuit of the vehicle, so there is no worry about overloading the factory dimmer.

The EV² gauges also include an integral programmable warning light, which may be activated and adjusted using Programmer P/N R82003 and a PC. The Programmer may also be used to adjust the backlighting curve to perfectly match the factory dash lights, and can also adjust the amount of signal filtering/smoothing that the software performs.

If price is a significant factor, you may want to consider using a mechanical EV boost gauge with EV² series for the remaining gauges. Since the mechanical boost gauge does not require an isolator (as with mechanical fuel pressure), you could install it at a lower price than the comparable EV² electronic gauge. The EV² would still be simpler to install, but at a higher price. The EV gauge would be very similar in appearance except for the curved lens. Mechanical EV2 pressure gauges will be introduced in 2013, at a lower price than the electronic pressure gauges.

See also Temperature Compensation below.
 

EV² vs. Performax™

The Performax and EV² series share many attributes: Stepper motor movements, LED backlighting, solid-state sensors and programmable warning lights. The EV² individual gauges cost more than the Performax counterparts, since the gauge must contain the processing power, while the Performax processing power is mostly in the ESP controller. The Performax series uses an under hood controller (the ESP) which connects to all the sensors (so you don’t have to run all those sensor wires through your firewall). There are 3 common wires which run to all of your gauges (up to 17 total), simplifying your wiring and allowing you to move gauges around to any location. The Performax system also includes the Total Recall™ feature, which provides the ability to view the extreme values of all functions connected to the Performax system. For most functions, the stored value is the maximum value, but on fuel system pressures (Fuel, HPOP, and Rail Pressure), the lowest value while under load is recorded (requires the use of Performax boost gauge sensor). This allows you to focus on driving down the drag strip or pulling track, keeping it in the groove, instead of trying to see if your fuel pressure is dipping at the end.

The ISSPRO Performax PC Data logger is an optional interface module and software package which allows your Windows-based PC to record all the data being read from the sensors connected to the Performax ESP controller.

The module connects to the gauge wiring in place of one gauge (or you can wire in an additional gauge connector in a convenient spot for the module), then connects via the included cord to the USB port of your PC.

The software displays actual values for all sensors connected to the ESP while it is logging (there is a start/stop button on the screen). When logging, the software writes to a comma-separated-value (CSV) file to be opened up in Microsoft Excel (or a similar program). The data is logged for each channel at 5 samples per second. You can use your spreadsheet (e.g., MS Excel) features to analyze and graph the results.

The data is logged for all sensors connected to the Performax ESP, regardless of whether a corresponding gauge is installed. You can have all 17 channels connected to sensors for data logging, even if you only have room for 3 gauges in your truck.

Also, available is the Performax USB Data logger, which records the data directly onto a USB drive, eliminating the need for the PC in the vehicle.

If you are not interested in the Total Recall or PC Data logger features, then EV² is the likely choice when installing 3 or fewer gauges. For more gauges, the Performax system is more cost-effective, especially when installation time is taken into account.

Pyrometer temperature compensation
One significant benefit of ISSPRO Performax™ and EV² gauge systems is the temperature compensated pyrometer, unique in automotive pyrometers.

Conventional pyrometers just measure the difference in temperature between the probe tip and the lead wire end (typically at the gauge head). The industry standard is to calibrate on the assumption that the gauge head is at 70° F. In an enclosed cab on a hot day with a dark-colored interior, a gauge can reach well over 170° F and will be very slow to cool off (the pods act as a good insulator). This will result in your pyro displaying a temperature over 100° F cooler than the actual temperature, in conditions where you are likely to see high temperatures. Because of this inherent inaccuracy, ISSPRO Performax and EV² pyrometers utilize temperature compensation circuits and show the actual probe tip temperature.

Pre-turbo or Post-turbo thermocouple installation?

Clearly, the manifold (pre-turbo) installation is better in almost all circumstances. Many people from the “old days” worry about thermocouple tips breaking off and chewing up the turbo. This fear is a relic from the days of exposed-junction thermocouples (the type still used in laboratories). For 40+ years, the automotive standard has been to encase the thermocouple junction in a welded sheath of high-temperature stainless steel. More recently they have also been made out of Inconel stainless, which is rated for continuous use at 2000° F. Here at ISSPRO we have not had a single report of a sheathed-design thermocouple breaking and damaging a turbo, with over 40 years of history.

Measuring pre-turbo tells you more about the temperatures your pistons are seeing, as well as the worst case temperature of your turbo. The temperature difference between pre- and post-turbo can vary anywhere from +500° F (pre-turbo much higher when under heavy load and temps rising quickly) to -100° F (post-turbo hotter immediately after starting downhill after a hard pull uphill).

The only time we see post-turbo measurements as preferable is when monitoring the turbo temperature during shutdown. As the turbo cools off, it is being cooled by the exhaust gases at no-load (which are now cooler than the turbo). These gases get heated up as they cool off the turbo, so you actually see a warmer temp post-turbo. However, the difference between pre- and post-turbo temperatures is minimal by the time the turbo has cooled to around 300° F (which is where most people shut down). In other words, post turbo lets you see the cooldown progress better, but it is nearly identical to the pre-turbo reading by the time you reach the shutdown temperature. To shut down automatically, many customers install an ISSPRO R4130 Turbo Temp monitor.

What are the replacement parts for my EV² gauges?

EV2 ACCESSORIES/PERFORMAX/EV² MULTI-GAUGE/SEALED EV²/EV3

EV² / PERFORMAX GAUGE MOUNTING BRACKET KIT R19999
EV² PRESSURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS R72014
EV² RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS (FORD 6.4L, NOT APPLICABLE) R72015
EV² HPOP SENSOR WIRE HARNESS (FORD ONLY) – R72016
EV² TEMPERATURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS – R72017
EV² PYROMETER WIRE HARNESS – R72018
EV² VOLTMETER WIRE HARNESS – R72019
EV² FUEL LEVEL WIRE HARNESS – R72020
EV² REAR AXLE TEMPERATURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS 20′ – R72021
EV² LIGHTING WIRE HARNESS WITH POTENTIOMETER – R72022
EV²/PERFORMAX WIRE INSERTION TOOL – R72023
EV² GAUGE END WIRE HARNESS, (PRE WIRED WITH CONNECTOR & BUTT SPLICES) – R72027
EV² POWER, GROUND, LIGHTING WIRE HARNESS – R72028
EV² SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER WIRE HARNESS – R72029
EV² RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS (DODGE/CUMMINS, 2013+) – R72030
EV²/PERFORMAX/EV² MULTI-GAUGE/EV3 BOOST GAUGE MANIFOLD BOLT DODGE 5.9L and 6.7L – R7741
COUPLER, 1/8F – 1/8F – R7854
ADAPTER, 1/8F – 7/16M – R7855
EV²/PERFORMAX/EV² MULTI-GAUGE/EV3 FUSE KIT – R78823
HOSE, BRAIDED SS (3FT) 1/8″ ID – 1/4″ OD M-FM 1/8″ NPT – R78824-3
HOSE, BRAIDED SS (6FT) 1/8″ ID – 1/4″ OD M-FM 1/8″ NPT – R78824-6
HOSE, BRAIDED SS (8FT) 1/8″ ID – 1/4″ OD M-FM 1/8″ NPT – R78824-8
HOSE, 18″ GREASE GUN – R78825
EV² / PERFORMAX SNUBBER KIT, CUMMINS 1989-2002 – R78826
EV² / PERFORMAX SNUBBER KIT, FORD POWERSTROKE 1994.5-1997 -R78827
EV² / PERFORMAX SNUBBER KIT, FORD POWERSTROKE 1999-2003 R78828
EV² / PERFORMAX SNUBBER KIT, FORD POWERSTROKE 2003.5-2007 R78829
EV² / PERFORMAX ADAPTER FITTING 1/4 TO 1/8 – R78844
EV² / PERFORMAX EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE INSTALLATION KIT 27″ 3/16″ TUBE – R78855
EV² / PERFORMAX ADAPTER FITTING 3/8 TO 1/8 – R78877
EV² / PERFORMAX ADAPTER FITTING 1/2 TO 1/8 – R78888
EV² / PERFORMAX OIL PAN ADAPTER FITTING 1/2″ X 20 UNF W/WASHER – R78899
EV² ATTRIBUTE PROGRAMMING TOOL – R82003
EV²/PERFORMAX/EV3 CLIPSENSE ™ TEMPERATURE SENSOR MOUNT – R82004
EV² OUTPUT DRIVER MODULE – R82006
EV² SEALED ATTRIBUTE PROGRAMMING TOOL – SEALED GAUGES – R82009
EV² DUST CAP AND CONNECTOR KIT – R82013
EV² / PERFORMAX/EV² MULTIGAUGES/SEALED EV²/EV3 PRESSURE SENDER 400 PSI – R89140
EV² / PERFORMAX/EV² MULTIGAUGES/SEALED EV²/EV3 PRESSURE SENDER 100 PSI – R89141
EV² / PERFORMAX/EV² MULTIGAUGES/SEALED EV²/EV3 PRESSURE SENDER 175 PSI – R89142
EV² / PERFORMAX/EV² MULTIGAUGES/SEALED EV²/EV3 PRESSURE SENDER 2000 PSI – R89146
EV² / PERFORMAX/EV² MULTIGAUGES/SEALED EV²/EV3 PRESSURE SENDER 14.7 InhG TO 60 PSI – R89147
EV² / PERFORMAX/EV² MULTIGAUGES/SEALED EV²/EV3 TEMPERATURE SENDER 0-320 – R89966

**R89145 fuel pressure sensor has been superseded by part number R89148**

EV² TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Are you having an issue with your EV² gauge or gauges? Check out our simple to follow troubleshooting guide below. This guide will help identify exactly what is causing the issue you’re experiencing with your gauge and guide you how to fix it. If you need more assistance after using the guide we encourage you to reach out to our tech department for further assistance. You can reach Don at 800-888-8065 ext. 3402.

All gauges:

1.  Check if the gauge pointer homes (moves counterclockwise towards pointer stop) on power-up. You should hear a faint noise from the gauge motor for a moment, and see the pointer move against the pointer stop,then it should move away from the pointer stop to the value the sensor currently indicates. If the gauge is newer than S/N C91 then it will have a red warning LED at the bottom (6:00 position) of the dial, this LED should illuminate briefly while the pointer is homing. If it is a pressure gauge and does not detect a sensor within normal operating range then the pointer will stay on the pointer stop (below 0) after homing. On all gauge types, if the gauge detects an out of range signal after previously detecting an in range signal during this key cycle (typically due to an intermittent connection to the sensor), the pointer will move to the straight down (6:00) position. For any results indicating a connection problem at the orange connector, use a pair of pliers and the black plastic wire insertion tool (R72023, making sure the solid end is towards pin #6) to FIRMLY press the wires into the orange connector.

2.  If the gauge homing function does not work &/or the LED does not illuminate briefly when power is applied, check your ignition input voltage at the pins into the gauge. You should have battery voltage into pin #1, ground at pin #3. Check voltages at the exposed metal portion of the terminal on the orange connector (accessible from the top of the gauge with the connector plugged into the gauge). If you do not see the voltage across those terminals; check for voltage between the actual wires (you can probe the cut ends of the wires). If you do not have voltage across the wires, check your source (vehicle) connection for the wires. If you find voltage at the wires but not at the terminals, check that the wires are sufficiently seated into the orange connector to make electrical contact. If you have other EV2 gauges (even if different types such as a pressure gauge connector to test a pyrometer) you can plug the gauge head into the connector for another working gauge to quickly see if it homes and illuminates the warning LED with a known good connector. If you definitely have power between these two terminals (not just to the wires but to the terminals within the orange connector) but still no homing, then the gauge should be replaced.

3.  If your backlighting is not working but the gauge is otherwise functioning, check voltage between the gauge pins 2 & 3 (checking at the exposed metal portion of the terminal on the orange connector). With the dimmer turned up all the way, you should see something close to battery voltage. If you have a 3rd generation (2003 or newer) Dodge, and the gauges dim significantly (more so than the factory dash) when your grid heater cycles, you may have the older software version in your gauges. Check the gauge label for a version number (letter “A” followed by a 3-digit number). The updated lighting is on versions A134 & higher. Some older gauges did not have any version number on the label. If you need the updated lighting software for a gauge older than A134, contact ISSPRO Customer Service to send back for reprogramming.

Standard Pressure Gauges (Boost Pressure, Oil Pressure, Exhaust  Backpressure, Trans Pressure, Drive Oil Pressure):

4.  If the gauge performs the homing functions of step #1 but the pointer moves to the straight down (6:00) position, the sensor reading is intermittently out of range. Perform the following checks in order, with the orange connector plugged in and ignition turned on:

a.   Checking at the terminals of the orange connector, check the voltage between pin #4 and pin #6. It should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If it is outside this range, the gauge is damaged. If the sensor is connected the value should be 4.9-5.1 volts, otherwise it should be around 5.3 volts.

b.  Check the voltage between the actual wires (rather than the terminals) by probing the ends of the wires, between pin #4 and pin #6. It should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If the voltage is present at the terminals but not the wires, check that the wires are sufficiently seated into the orange connector to make electrical contact.

c.   Check the voltage between the actual wires (rather than the terminals) by probing the ends of the wires, between pin #5 and pin #6. It should be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts. If it is outside this range (but checks a & b above passed), the sensor is damaged.

d.  Checking at the terminals of the orange connector, check the voltage between pin #5 and pin #6. It should be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts. If it is outside this range but within the range when checking at the wires, check that the wires are sufficiently seated into the orange connector to make electrical contact.

e.   The value measured at step d above should be as follows:

for 100 psi sensor (all gauges up to 100 psi)-

PSI 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
Voltage 0.5 0.7 0.9 1.1 1.3 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.1 2.3 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5

For the 175 psi sensor (gauges from 100 to 180 psi except Trans Pressure) –

PSI 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 75 80 90 100 110 120 125 130 140 150 160 170 175
Voltage 0.5 0.7 1 1.1 1.2 1.4 1.6 1.9 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.6 2.8 3 3.2 3.4 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.2 4.4 4.5

For the 400 psi sensor (Trans Pressure and Drive Oil Pressure gauges) –

PSI 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
Voltage 0.5 0.7 0.9 1.1 1.3 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.1 2.3 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5

For the -30 in-Hg to +60 psi sensor (Vac/boost gauges):

In-Hg Vac, PSI   -30   -20   -10   0   5   10   15   20   25   30   35   40   45   50   55   60
Voltage 0.5 0.76 1.03 1.29 1.56 1.82 2.09 2.36 2.63 2.89 3.16 3.43 3.70 3.97 4.23 4.5

For the 2000 psi sensor (Nitrous and Brake Pressure gauges):

PSI 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
Voltage 0.5 0.7 0.9 1.1 1.3 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.1 2.3 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5

If the voltage is more than 0.4 volts from the values listed above, the sensor is probably faulty and should be replaced.

Rail Pressure Gauges:

5.  If the gauge performs the homing functions of step #1 but the pointer moves to the straight down (6:00) position, the sensor reading is out of range. Perform the following checks in order, with the orange connector plugged in and ignition turned on:

a.   Check that the connection between the factory harness and the gauge harness is correct. Be sure that the truck harness connector is oriented so that its latch engages the angled block on the Rail Pressure harness connector, not the non-angled block on the other side of the connector.

b.  Check the voltage between the actual wires (rather than the terminals) by probing the ends of the wires, between pin #5 and pin #6. It should be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts. If it is outside this range, the sensor or wiring is damaged.

c.   Checking at the terminals of the orange connector, check the voltage between pin #5 and pin #6.  It should be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts. If it is outside this range but within the range when checking at the wires, check that the wires are sufficiently seated into the orange connector to make electrical contact.

Pyrometers:

6.  If the gauge performs the homing functions of step #1 but the pointer moves to the straight down (6:00) position, the sensor reading is intermittently out of range. Perform the following checks in order, with the orange connector disconnected from the gauge:

a.   Using a digital multimeter set on DC millivolts, measure the voltage between pins 4 & 5 (red and yellow wires), checking at the terminals of the orange connector.

b.  Check the voltage between the actual wires (rather than the terminals) by probing the ends of the wires, between the red and yellow wires. Your value should be within 0.02 millivolts of the value measured at the terminals in step a.  If there is a difference, check the connection between the wires and the connector terminals.

c.   The values measured above, on a cold engine, with the vehicle interior approximately the same as the exhaust system, should be approximately 0 millivolts. With the engine idling (exhaust gas temperature approximately 300°F) and the vehicle interior at approximately 70°F, you should measure approximately 5.28 millivolts. Revving the engine up in neutral you should see the voltage climb, usually to at least 8.0 mV. If there are any problems with these measurements check the wiring to the thermocouple.

d.  If you have a multimeter which can measure resistance but does not measure millivolts, you can do a simple test by measuring the resistance between pins 4 & 5 of the orange connector with it disconnected from the gauge. With the engine off it should be between 1 and 10 ohms depending on the length of the wiring to the sensor. If you measure outside of this range, disconnect the sealed connector near the thermocouple (sensor) and measure the resistance across the two pins on the thermocouple, it should be 0.5-2.0 ohms. If the measurement at the sensor is within range but the measurement at the orange connector is out of range, either the wires are loose at the orange connector (re-press them using pliers and the plastic wire insertion tool) or the wiring is bad. If the measurement at the thermocouple is outside the range then the thermocouple is bad.

Temperature Gauges:

7.  If the gauge performs the homing functions of step #1 but the pointer moves to the straight down (6:00) position, the sensor reading is out of range. Perform the following checks in order, with the orange connector disconnected from the gauge:

e.   Using a digital multimeter set on resistance (ohms), measure the resistance between pins 4 & 5 (green and white wires), checking at the terminals of the orange connector. The resistance value should follow the chart below. If more than 150 ohms off these values, unplug the wiring at the sensor and re-check at the terminals of the sensor. If the value is still more than 150 ohms off, the sensor is defective and should be replaced.

Temp °F 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180
Res (Ohms)   22.5K   17.3K   13.4K   10.4K   8.17K   6.45K   5.13K   4.10K   3.30K   2.68K   2.19K   1.80K   1.49K   1.24K

 EV Product Line

Trouble Shooting Steps


Pyrometer Gauge
Check Thermocouple Output
1. With power off disconnect thermocouple leads from wire harness that goes to amplifier box.
2. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check thermocouple resistance at the red and yellow wire. Resistance should less then 1Ω.
3. With the multimeter still connected, move the thermocouple wire harness.
Resistance should still be less then 1Ω. If resistance measures higher then 1Ω this could be the problem.
4. Using a multimeter on the millivolt setting check thermocouple output.
5. Make sure the thermocouple is at room temperature
6. This is the output for the thermocouple.

7. If the thermocouple output is at 1mV or less then start the engine and check to see if the thermocouple output increases.
8. Use the thermocouple output chart to see if the thermocouple output matches the temperature of the manifold or exhaust pipe.
9. If mutlimeter measures a low output the thermocouple could have a problem.

Check Gauge Resistance
1. With power off disconnect the four wire connector from wire harness that goes to amplifier box
2. Check wires on studs to make sure wire colors match labels on studs.
Green (GN) and Yellow (Y) and Gray (GY) and White (W)
3. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check gauge resistance.
4. Connect multimeter leads across studs label green (GN) and yellow (Y).
Resistance should measure around 82Ω
5. Connect multimeter leads across studs label gray (GY) and white (W).
Resistance should measure around 75Ω
6. If mutlimeter measures open in either pair the gauge could have a problem.

Check Amplifier Box
1. With power off disconnect thermocouple leads from wire harness that goes to amplifier box.
2. Make sure the four wire connector going to the gauge is connected.
3. Turn power to gauge on.
4. Using a multimeter on the voltage setting check voltage at the gauge.
Green(+)/Yellow(-) Thermocouple Output Gray(+)/White(-)
2.5 Volts Open 0.8 Volts
# 2.0 Volts 300°F 2.2 Volts
# -.9 Volts 600°F 2.5 Volts
*CONNECT THERMOCOUPLE FOR THIS MEASUREMENT
 

EV Product Line

Trouble Shooting Steps



Temperature Gauge
Check Temperature Sensor Output
1. With power off, disconnect 2 wire connector at the temperature sensor.
2. Make sure the temperature sensor is at room temperature
3. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check 2 wire connector resistance going to the temperature sensor.
4. This is the output for the temperature sensor.

100°F to 240°F and 100°F to 280°F
140°F to 320°F
5. If the temperature sensor output is at 1,000Ω or less then start the engine and check to see if the temperature sensor output increases.
6. Use the temperature sensor output chart to see if the temperature sensor output matches the temperature of the engine.
7. 140°F to 320°F temperature sensor may need heated using another heat source because the engine does not heat temperature sensor above 140°F at idling.
8. If multimeter measures an open or a high resistance over 2,300Ω the temperature sensor could have a problem.

Check Gauge Resistance
1. With power off disconnect the four wire connector from wire harness that goes to amplifier box
2. Check wires on studs to make sure wire colors match labels on studs.
Green (GN) and Yellow (Y) and Gray (GY) and White (W)
3. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check gauge resistance.
4. Connect multimeter leads across studs label green (GN) and yellow (Y).
Resistance should measure around 82Ω
5. Connect multimeter leads across studs label gray (GY) and white (W).
Resistance should measure around 75Ω
6. If mutlimeter measures open in either pair the gauge could have a problem.

Check Amplifier Box
1. With power off disconnect 2 wire connector at the temperature sensor.
2. Make sure the four wire connector going to the gauge is connected.
3. Turn power to gauge on.
4. Using a multimeter on the voltage setting check voltage at the gauge.
 
100°F to 240°F and 100°F to 280°F Green(+)/Yellow(-) Temperature Sensor Output Gray(+)/White(-)
1.6 Volts Open -1.2 Volts
# 1.5 Volts 120°F 1.8 Volts
# -0.3 Volts 140°F 1.6 Volts

 

EV Product Line

Trouble Shooting Steps


Pressure Gauge
Check Pressure Sensor Output
1. With power off, disconnect 2 wire connector at the pressure sensor.
2. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check 2 wire connector resistance going to the pressure sensor.
3. This is the output for the pressure sensor.

4. If the pressure sensor output is at 7Ω or more then start the engine and check to see if the pressure sensor output change.
5. Use the pressure sensor output chart to see if the pressure sensor output matches the pressure of the engine.
6. If multimeter measures an open or a high resistance over 114Ω the pressure sensor could have a problem.
Check Gauge Resistance
1. With power off disconnect the four wire connector from wire harness that goes to amplifier box
2. Check wires on studs to make sure wire colors match labels on studs.
Green (GN) and Yellow (Y) and Gray (GY) and White (W)
3. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check gauge resistance.
4. Connect multimeter leads across studs label green (GN) and yellow (Y).
Resistance should measure around 86Ω
5. Connect multimeter leads across studs label gray (GY) and white (W).
Resistance should measure around 78Ω
6. If mutlimeter measures open in either pair the gauge could have a problem.
Check Amplifier Box
1. With power off disconnect 2 wire connector at the pressure sensor.
2. Make sure the four wire connector going to the gauge is connected.
3. Turn power to gauge on.
4. Using a multimeter on the voltage setting check voltage at the gauge.
Green(+)/Yellow(-) Temperature Sensor Output Gray(+)/White(-)
2.1 Volts Open -1.7 Volts
# 2.1 Volts 10 PSI -1.3 Volts
# 2.1 Volts 20 PSI 0.6 Volts
# -1.9 Volts 60 PSI 1.5 Volts
*CONNECT PRESSURE SENSOR FOR THESE MEASUREMENTS