Having trouble choosing which EV² style will match your dash? Click the link to use our EV² Style Guide to find the perfect factory dash match Ford, Dodge, or Chevy/GM truck.

 EV² Mechanical Gauges

PLEASE CHOOSE CORRECT VOLTAGE BASED ON THE TYPE OF TRUCK YOU ARE INSTALLING ON.
HEAVY DUTY APPLICATIONS WILL REQUIRE 8VDC. 
MODEL YEAR MECHANICAL EV² VOLTAGE NEEDED FACTORY MATCH EV² STYLE
DODGE 
RAM 89-93 8V R12000
RAM 94-97 (EARLY 2ND GEN) 8V R12000
RAM 98-02 (2ND GEN) 8V R17000
RAM 03-09 (3RD GEN EXCEPT '09 1500) 3.8V R14000/R19000
RAM 09-13 (RAM 1500) 1.7V R30000
RAM 10-13 (2500&3500 (EARLY 4TH GEN) 1.7V R30000
RAM 10-13 LARAMIE LONGHORN 1.7V R38000
RAM 14 & NEWER (LATE 4TH GEN) 1.7V R42000
RAM 14 & NEWER LARAMIE LONGHORN 1.7V R39000
FORD
F150 92-96 (OBS) 8V R16000
F250-550 92-97 8V R16000
F250-550 99-07 (SUPER DUTY) 8V OR 1.7V R17000
F250-550 11 & NEWER 1.7V R34000
F250-550 11 & NEWER 1.7V R35000
F250-550 11 & NEWER 1.7V R36000
CHEVY/GM
CHEVY/GM 01-'06 3.8V R12000
CHEVY/GM 07-'13 (W/ LTZ TRIM PKG 3.8V R18000
CHEVY/GM 07-'13 (W/O LTZ TRIM PKG 3.8V R18000
NISSAN  TITAN XD '16 & NEWER N/A R42000
VW
JETTA 99.5-03  1.7V R32000
JETTA 04 & NEWER 1.7V CONTACT FACTORY

EV² TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Are you having an issue with your EV² gauge or gauges? Check out our simple to follow troubleshooting guide below. This guide will help identify exactly what is causing the issue you’re experiencing with your gauge and guide you how to fix it. If you need more assistance after using the guide we encourage you to reach out to our tech department for further assistance. You can reach Don at 800-888-8065 ext. 3402.

All gauges:

1.  Check if the gauge pointer homes (moves counterclockwise towards pointer stop) on power-up. You should hear a faint noise from the gauge motor for a moment, and see the pointer move against the pointer stop,then it should move away from the pointer stop to the value the sensor currently indicates. If the gauge is newer than S/N C91 then it will have a red warning LED at the bottom (6:00 position) of the dial, this LED should illuminate briefly while the pointer is homing. If it is a pressure gauge and does not detect a sensor within normal operating range then the pointer will stay on the pointer stop (below 0) after homing. On all gauge types, if the gauge detects an out of range signal after previously detecting an in range signal during this key cycle (typically due to an intermittent connection to the sensor), the pointer will move to the straight down (6:00) position. For any results indicating a connection problem at the orange connector, use a pair of pliers and the black plastic wire insertion tool (R72023, making sure the solid end is towards pin #6) to FIRMLY press the wires into the orange connector.

2.  If the gauge homing function does not work &/or the LED does not illuminate briefly when power is applied, check your ignition input voltage at the pins into the gauge. You should have battery voltage into pin #1, ground at pin #3. Check voltages at the exposed metal portion of the terminal on the orange connector (accessible from the top of the gauge with the connector plugged into the gauge). If you do not see the voltage across those terminals; check for voltage between the actual wires (you can probe the cut ends of the wires). If you do not have voltage across the wires, check your source (vehicle) connection for the wires. If you find voltage at the wires but not at the terminals, check that the wires are sufficiently seated into the orange connector to make electrical contact. If you have other EV2 gauges (even if different types such as a pressure gauge connector to test a pyrometer) you can plug the gauge head into the connector for another working gauge to quickly see if it homes and illuminates the warning LED with a known good connector. If you definitely have power between these two terminals (not just to the wires but to the terminals within the orange connector) but still no homing, then the gauge should be replaced.

3.  If your backlighting is not working but the gauge is otherwise functioning, check voltage between the gauge pins 2 & 3 (checking at the exposed metal portion of the terminal on the orange connector). With the dimmer turned up all the way, you should see something close to battery voltage. If you have a 3rd generation (2003 or newer) Dodge, and the gauges dim significantly (more so than the factory dash) when your grid heater cycles, you may have the older software version in your gauges. Check the gauge label for a version number (letter “A” followed by a 3-digit number). The updated lighting is on versions A134 & higher. Some older gauges did not have any version number on the label. If you need the updated lighting software for a gauge older than A134, contact ISSPRO Customer Service to send back for reprogramming.

Standard Pressure Gauges (Boost Pressure, Oil Pressure, Exhaust  Backpressure, Trans Pressure, Drive Oil Pressure):

4.  If the gauge performs the homing functions of step #1 but the pointer moves to the straight down (6:00) position, the sensor reading is intermittently out of range. Perform the following checks in order, with the orange connector plugged in and ignition turned on:

a.   Checking at the terminals of the orange connector, check the voltage between pin #4 and pin #6. It should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If it is outside this range, the gauge is damaged. If the sensor is connected the value should be 4.9-5.1 volts, otherwise it should be around 5.3 volts.

b.  Check the voltage between the actual wires (rather than the terminals) by probing the ends of the wires, between pin #4 and pin #6. It should be between 4.5 and 5.5 volts. If the voltage is present at the terminals but not the wires, check that the wires are sufficiently seated into the orange connector to make electrical contact.

c.   Check the voltage between the actual wires (rather than the terminals) by probing the ends of the wires, between pin #5 and pin #6. It should be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts. If it is outside this range (but checks a & b above passed), the sensor is damaged.

d.  Checking at the terminals of the orange connector, check the voltage between pin #5 and pin #6. It should be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts. If it is outside this range but within the range when checking at the wires, check that the wires are sufficiently seated into the orange connector to make electrical contact.

e.   The value measured at step d above should be as follows:

for 100 psi sensor (all gauges up to 100 psi)-

PSI 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100
Voltage 0.5 0.7 0.9 1.1 1.3 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.1 2.3 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5

For the 175 psi sensor (gauges from 100 to 180 psi except Trans Pressure) –

PSI 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 75 80 90 100 110 120 125 130 140 150 160 170 175
Voltage 0.5 0.7 1 1.1 1.2 1.4 1.6 1.9 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.6 2.8 3 3.2 3.4 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.2 4.4 4.5

For the 400 psi sensor (Trans Pressure and Drive Oil Pressure gauges) –

PSI 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
Voltage 0.5 0.7 0.9 1.1 1.3 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.1 2.3 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5

For the -30 in-Hg to +60 psi sensor (Vac/boost gauges):

In-Hg Vac, PSI   -30   -20   -10   0   5   10   15   20   25   30   35   40   45   50   55   60
Voltage 0.5 0.76 1.03 1.29 1.56 1.82 2.09 2.36 2.63 2.89 3.16 3.43 3.70 3.97 4.23 4.5

For the 2000 psi sensor (Nitrous and Brake Pressure gauges):

PSI 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 1900 2000
Voltage 0.5 0.7 0.9 1.1 1.3 1.5 1.7 1.9 2.1 2.3 2.5 2.7 2.9 3.1 3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5

If the voltage is more than 0.4 volts from the values listed above, the sensor is probably faulty and should be replaced.

Rail Pressure Gauges:

5.  If the gauge performs the homing functions of step #1 but the pointer moves to the straight down (6:00) position, the sensor reading is out of range. Perform the following checks in order, with the orange connector plugged in and ignition turned on:

a.   Check that the connection between the factory harness and the gauge harness is correct. Be sure that the truck harness connector is oriented so that its latch engages the angled block on the Rail Pressure harness connector, not the non-angled block on the other side of the connector.

b.  Check the voltage between the actual wires (rather than the terminals) by probing the ends of the wires, between pin #5 and pin #6. It should be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts. If it is outside this range, the sensor or wiring is damaged.

c.   Checking at the terminals of the orange connector, check the voltage between pin #5 and pin #6.  It should be between 0.5 and 4.5 volts. If it is outside this range but within the range when checking at the wires, check that the wires are sufficiently seated into the orange connector to make electrical contact.

Pyrometers:

6.  If the gauge performs the homing functions of step #1 but the pointer moves to the straight down (6:00) position, the sensor reading is intermittently out of range. Perform the following checks in order, with the orange connector disconnected from the gauge:

a.   Using a digital multimeter set on DC millivolts, measure the voltage between pins 4 & 5 (red and yellow wires), checking at the terminals of the orange connector.

b.  Check the voltage between the actual wires (rather than the terminals) by probing the ends of the wires, between the red and yellow wires. Your value should be within 0.02 millivolts of the value measured at the terminals in step a.  If there is a difference, check the connection between the wires and the connector terminals.

c.   The values measured above, on a cold engine, with the vehicle interior approximately the same as the exhaust system, should be approximately 0 millivolts. With the engine idling (exhaust gas temperature approximately 300°F) and the vehicle interior at approximately 70°F, you should measure approximately 5.28 millivolts. Revving the engine up in neutral you should see the voltage climb, usually to at least 8.0 mV. If there are any problems with these measurements check the wiring to the thermocouple.

d.  If you have a multimeter which can measure resistance but does not measure millivolts, you can do a simple test by measuring the resistance between pins 4 & 5 of the orange connector with it disconnected from the gauge. With the engine off it should be between 1 and 10 ohms depending on the length of the wiring to the sensor. If you measure outside of this range, disconnect the sealed connector near the thermocouple (sensor) and measure the resistance across the two pins on the thermocouple, it should be 0.5-2.0 ohms. If the measurement at the sensor is within range but the measurement at the orange connector is out of range, either the wires are loose at the orange connector (re-press them using pliers and the plastic wire insertion tool) or the wiring is bad. If the measurement at the thermocouple is outside the range then the thermocouple is bad.

Temperature Gauges:

7.  If the gauge performs the homing functions of step #1 but the pointer moves to the straight down (6:00) position, the sensor reading is out of range. Perform the following checks in order, with the orange connector disconnected from the gauge:

e.   Using a digital multimeter set on resistance (ohms), measure the resistance between pins 4 & 5 (green and white wires), checking at the terminals of the orange connector. The resistance value should follow the chart below. If more than 150 ohms off these values, unplug the wiring at the sensor and re-check at the terminals of the sensor. If the value is still more than 150 ohms off, the sensor is defective and should be replaced.

Temp °F 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180
Res (Ohms)   22.5K   17.3K   13.4K   10.4K   8.17K   6.45K   5.13K   4.10K   3.30K   2.68K   2.19K   1.80K   1.49K   1.24K

What are the replacement parts for my EV² gauges?

EV2 ACCESSORIES
 Description PN
 EV² / PERFORMAX GAUGE MOUNTING BRACKET KIT R19999
 EV² PRESSURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS R72014
 EV² RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS (FORD 6.4L NOT APPLICABLE) R72015
 EV² HPOP SENSOR WIRE HARNESS (FORD ONLY) R72016
 EV² TEMPERATURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS R72017
 EV² PYROMETER WIRE HARNESS R72018
 EV² VOLTMETER WIRE HARNESS R72019
 EV² FUEL LEVEL WIRE HARNESS R72020
 EV² REAR AXLE TEMPERATURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS 20' R72021
 EV² LIGHTING WIRE HARNESS WITH POTENTIOMETER     R72022
 WIRE INSERTION TOOL R72023
 EV² GAUGE END WIRE HARNESS, PRE WIRED WITH CONNECTOR & BUTT SPLICES R72027
 EV² POWER, GROUND, LIGHTING WIRE HARNESS R72028
 EV² SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER WIRE HARNESS R72029
 EV² RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR WIRE HARNESS (DODGE/CUMMINS 2013+) R72030
 BOOST GAUGE MANIFOLD BOLT DODGE 5.9L and 6.7L R7741
 COUPLER, 1/8F - 1/8F R7854
 ADAPTER, 1/8F - 7/16M R7855
 FUSE KIT R78823
 HOSE, BRAIDED SS (3FT) 1/8" ID - 1/4" OD M-FM 1/8" NPT R78824-3
 HOSE, BRAIDED SS (6FT) 1/8" ID - 1/4" OD M-FM 1/8" NPT R78824-6
 HOSE, BRAIDED SS (8FT) 1/8" ID - 1/4" OD M-FM 1/8" NPT R78824-8
 HOSE, 18" GREASE GUN R78825
 EV² / PERFORMAX SNUBBER KIT, CUMMINS 1989-2002 R78826
 EV²  / PERFORMAX SNUBBER KIT, FORD POWERSTROKE 1994.5-1997 R78827
 EV²  / PERFORMAX SNUBBER KIT, FORD POWERSTROKE 1999-2003 R78828
 EV²  / PERFORMAX SNUBBER KIT, FORD POWERSTROKE 2003.5-2007 R78829
 EV² ADAPTER FITTING 1/4 TO 1/8 R78844
 EV² / PERFORMAX EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE INSTALLATION KIT 27" 3/16" TUBE R78855
 EV² ADAPTER FITTING 3/8 TO 1/8 R78877
 EV² ADAPTER FITTING 1/2 TO 1/8 R78888
 EV² / PERFORMAX OIL PAN ADAPTER FITTING 1/2" X 20 UNF W/WASHER R78899
 ATTRIBUTE PROGRAMMING TOOL R82003
 CLIPSENSE ™ TEMPERATURE SENSOR MOUNT R82004
 EV² OUTPUT DRIVER MODULE R82006
 ATTRIBUTE PROGRAMMING TOOL - SEALED GAUGES R82009
 EV² DUST CAP AND CONNECTOR KIT R82013
 EV² / PERFORMAX  PRESSURE SENDER 400 PSI R89140
 EV² / PERFORMAX  PRESSURE SENDER 175 PSI R89142
 EV² / PERFORMAX  PRESSURE SENDER 2000 PSI R89146
 EV² / PERFORMAX  PRESSURE SENDER 14.7 INHG TO 60 PSI R89147
EV² / PERFORMAX PRESSURE SENSOR 0-100 PSI R89150
 EV² / PERFORMAX TEMPERATURE SENDER 0-320 R89966

**R89148 fuel pressure sensor has been superseded by part number R89150**
 

 EV Product Line

Trouble Shooting Steps


Pyrometer Gauge
Check Thermocouple Output
1. With power off disconnect thermocouple leads from wire harness that goes to amplifier box.
2. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check thermocouple resistance at the red and yellow wire. Resistance should less then 1Ω.
3. With the multimeter still connected, move the thermocouple wire harness.
Resistance should still be less then 1Ω. If resistance measures higher then 1Ω this could be the problem.
4. Using a multimeter on the millivolt setting check thermocouple output.
5. Make sure the thermocouple is at room temperature
6. This is the output for the thermocouple.

7. If the thermocouple output is at 1mV or less then start the engine and check to see if the thermocouple output increases.
8. Use the thermocouple output chart to see if the thermocouple output matches the temperature of the manifold or exhaust pipe.
9. If mutlimeter measures a low output the thermocouple could have a problem.

Check Gauge Resistance
1. With power off disconnect the four wire connector from wire harness that goes to amplifier box
2. Check wires on studs to make sure wire colors match labels on studs.
Green (GN) and Yellow (Y) and Gray (GY) and White (W)
3. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check gauge resistance.
4. Connect multimeter leads across studs label green (GN) and yellow (Y).
Resistance should measure around 82Ω
5. Connect multimeter leads across studs label gray (GY) and white (W).
Resistance should measure around 75Ω
6. If mutlimeter measures open in either pair the gauge could have a problem.

Check Amplifier Box
1. With power off disconnect thermocouple leads from wire harness that goes to amplifier box.
2. Make sure the four wire connector going to the gauge is connected.
3. Turn power to gauge on.
4. Using a multimeter on the voltage setting check voltage at the gauge.
Green(+)/Yellow(-) Thermocouple Output Gray(+)/White(-)
2.5 Volts Open 0.8 Volts
# 2.0 Volts 300°F 2.2 Volts
# -.9 Volts 600°F 2.5 Volts
*CONNECT THERMOCOUPLE FOR THIS MEASUREMENT
 

EV Product Line

Trouble Shooting Steps



Temperature Gauge
Check Temperature Sensor Output
1. With power off, disconnect 2 wire connector at the temperature sensor.
2. Make sure the temperature sensor is at room temperature
3. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check 2 wire connector resistance going to the temperature sensor.
4. This is the output for the temperature sensor.

100°F to 240°F and 100°F to 280°F
140°F to 320°F
5. If the temperature sensor output is at 1,000Ω or less then start the engine and check to see if the temperature sensor output increases.
6. Use the temperature sensor output chart to see if the temperature sensor output matches the temperature of the engine.
7. 140°F to 320°F temperature sensor may need heated using another heat source because the engine does not heat temperature sensor above 140°F at idling.
8. If multimeter measures an open or a high resistance over 2,300Ω the temperature sensor could have a problem.

Check Gauge Resistance
1. With power off disconnect the four wire connector from wire harness that goes to amplifier box
2. Check wires on studs to make sure wire colors match labels on studs.
Green (GN) and Yellow (Y) and Gray (GY) and White (W)
3. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check gauge resistance.
4. Connect multimeter leads across studs label green (GN) and yellow (Y).
Resistance should measure around 82Ω
5. Connect multimeter leads across studs label gray (GY) and white (W).
Resistance should measure around 75Ω
6. If mutlimeter measures open in either pair the gauge could have a problem.

Check Amplifier Box
1. With power off disconnect 2 wire connector at the temperature sensor.
2. Make sure the four wire connector going to the gauge is connected.
3. Turn power to gauge on.
4. Using a multimeter on the voltage setting check voltage at the gauge.
 
100°F to 240°F and 100°F to 280°F Green(+)/Yellow(-) Temperature Sensor Output Gray(+)/White(-)
1.6 Volts Open -1.2 Volts
# 1.5 Volts 120°F 1.8 Volts
# -0.3 Volts 140°F 1.6 Volts

 

EV Product Line

Trouble Shooting Steps


Pressure Gauge
Check Pressure Sensor Output
1. With power off, disconnect 2 wire connector at the pressure sensor.
2. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check 2 wire connector resistance going to the pressure sensor.
3. This is the output for the pressure sensor.

4. If the pressure sensor output is at 7Ω or more then start the engine and check to see if the pressure sensor output change.
5. Use the pressure sensor output chart to see if the pressure sensor output matches the pressure of the engine.
6. If multimeter measures an open or a high resistance over 114Ω the pressure sensor could have a problem.
Check Gauge Resistance
1. With power off disconnect the four wire connector from wire harness that goes to amplifier box
2. Check wires on studs to make sure wire colors match labels on studs.
Green (GN) and Yellow (Y) and Gray (GY) and White (W)
3. Using a multimeter on the resistance setting check gauge resistance.
4. Connect multimeter leads across studs label green (GN) and yellow (Y).
Resistance should measure around 86Ω
5. Connect multimeter leads across studs label gray (GY) and white (W).
Resistance should measure around 78Ω
6. If mutlimeter measures open in either pair the gauge could have a problem.
Check Amplifier Box
1. With power off disconnect 2 wire connector at the pressure sensor.
2. Make sure the four wire connector going to the gauge is connected.
3. Turn power to gauge on.
4. Using a multimeter on the voltage setting check voltage at the gauge.
Green(+)/Yellow(-) Temperature Sensor Output Gray(+)/White(-)
2.1 Volts Open -1.7 Volts
# 2.1 Volts 10 PSI -1.3 Volts
# 2.1 Volts 20 PSI 0.6 Volts
# -1.9 Volts 60 PSI 1.5 Volts
*CONNECT PRESSURE SENSOR FOR THESE MEASUREMENTS